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STREET SMART
Lessons Learned on
Taiwan's Streets
Karen Schmitt

Negotiating Taiwan's roadways may be one of the most grueling tests to face a foreigner.  Risking life and limb, haunted by tow trucks and fearful of loosing our way, we are obliged to take to the city streets.  Basic survival is not the only lesson learned.  We can gain other insight along the way.

Signage, the current centerpiece of heated debate among city planners and the Department of Transportation, makes a good starting point.  In China, a standardized  system of English is employed for translation but in Taiwan, politics prevent the transfer of translation.  Here, street names take on curious twists and turns in spelling, even within the same block.  "Jiouru",  arbitrarily written as "Chioru" and "Joru", is just one of the many perplexing examples.   In a gesture to guide  internationals along the highways and byways, Taipei has recently taken a bold step. Major thoroughfares in the city have been christened as numbered (Arabic)  avenues - North-South, or boulevards - East-West; other cities have yet to follow suit. It's too early to measure the benefits, but if this system is adopted, Taiwan stands to loose something special....the beauty of Mandarin names and the rich associations they carry.  With a bit of briefing, the Chinese hieroglyphics can be less threatening to a foreigner than the confused variety of English counterparts.  They are definitely more interesting.

No matter where you roam island-wide, certain street names occur repeatedly and are worth memorizing.  After the downfall of the Qing Dynasty and during the  formative years of the Republic, a new order evolved to encourage "modern" values, and streets were named accordingly to provide moral direction.  Certain  qualities were considered paramount: "Jenai", or brother -  love;  "Chunghsiao", or devotion - filial piety;  "Hoping", or peace - harmony; and "Hsinyi", or trustworthiness - compassion.  The characters have been coupled into four popular and profound roadway names.  "Chungcheng"  and "Chungshan", honorific titles for Chiang Kai Shek and Dr. Sun Yat-sen respectively, are likewise parlayed in every city, town and village in respect to the founding fathers.  Citizen's rights figure prominently in street signs, too. Namely, the 3 Principles: "Minsheng" , "For The People", "Minchuan",  "By The People" and "Mintsu",  "Of The People".  Nor was the younger generation overlooked.   "Chingnien", or aspiring youth, was the attempt to foster  responsibility early on.  If only the sorties led by the young and the reckless scooter drivers could be limited to this venue, we would all breathe a bit easier.

In southern Taiwan, road have a distinctive character. Scooters, cars, carts, trucks, bikes and makeshift vehicles of all kinds compete equally for space.  In the  countryside, an occasional water buffalo even crosses the pathway.  Traffic movements are especially erratic, but there is an "order".  Cleared of a cosmopolitan  facade there is a heightened element of excitement that in many ways reveals the "real" Taiwan.  Foreign travelers often stumble across street performances, ceremonial processions, impromptu roadside sales and other surprises around city corners.

Tainan City, and older sections of Tsoying District in Kaohsiung, carries vestiges of the once heavily fortified walled capital.  The streets meandered with a  purpose...to thwart intruders.  They were punctuated at cardinal points by fortified gates; historic remnants line the streets in all directions.  Today, the maze confuses  residents and visitors alike, but when approached with a spirit of adventure, and within the cool confines of a taxi guided by a competent driver, the trip can be  enjoyable.  Yen Ping in Anping is Tainan's oldest road.  As Taiwan's "First Street", it was the hub of activity crowded with scholars and artisans under Koxinga's  bidding to reshape the area. Now little more than a memory, Yen Ping is just 300 meters long.  The centuries old Yung Tai Hsing Preserved Fruits Store is its sole  survivor of antiquity.

Kaohsiung City is more orderly by comparison thanks to the efforts of Japanese civil engineers during the period of occupation.   Major arteries were purposefully  designed to be expansive, to showcase the "jewel of the south".  Traffic circles, that were strategically stationed to facilitate movement, are numerous.  The Yen  Cheng Rotary, which faces the new Trade & Exhibition Center and Orchestra Hall, exemplifies the city's effort to blend today and yesterday.  Will further progress be as kind to the few remaining relics and historic neighborhoods.

Farther south in Kenting, roads are reduced in size and number.  They graciously obey the lay of the land and the sea with peaceful composure.  Up in the surrounding mountains, old aboriginal trails that once linked distant villages are ready and waiting for the able hiker.  Passage is challenging and prompts respect for  those who depended upon more basic routes for their existence.  Now, that's a road test in survival!

Next time out, go with the flow. Keep your mind, and your eyes, open.   Who knows what you'll learn.Unique, or isolated, street names do exist. Kaohsiung, for example, is the only city to have a system of roads with numbered titles from one to ten, making it the perfect classroom for beginning language learners. These promenades carry meaningful messages from religious, civil and philosophical viewpoints and provide some  logic to the city layout.  As such, they can be used as reference points when moving about.

KAOHSIUNG'S "NUMBERED" STREETS HAVE A WEALTH OF MEANING BEHIND THEM.....


ISHIN   "One Heart", being on the same wave length, so to speak.  The concept implies loyalty and the unified sentiments of different peoples under a single hand. 

ERSHENG   "Two Sacreds"  identified as Martial Arts & Literature/History, or Kuang Kong & Confucius respectively

SANTO   "Three Ways" or the traditional philosophies: Confucianism, Buddhism; Taoism. If you're searching for sed furniture and appliances, check Santo 3rd Road.

SZUWEI   "Four Principles" are recognized as essential in guiding society: courtesy; compassion; integrity; responsibility.  Szuwei makes an appropriate location for City Hall offices.

WUFU   "Five Fortunes" that everyone dreams of:: long life, many sons, peaceful death, wealth and good luck.  The Culture Center is located along upper Wufu; several craft shops are situated along lower Wufu past Love River.  You'll need good luck finding a parking place in either spot.
 
 

 

LIOHE  "Six Realms" represents "pure" direction: North; East; South; West and Heaven & Earth. A significant section of Liouho is given over to the infamous Night Market scene.

CHIHSIEN    "Seven Virtues" Personalized during the Jin Dynasty, the seven scholars (or, Virutes) represented the ideal patriot. By their escape to the mountain forests, they carried on traditions of the past. The area around Chihshien and Linshen intersection is a known as Telecommunications Central. Pick up a cell phone here to make calls away from home.

PATEH   "Eight Moral Precepts"  "Eight" often relates to the 8 great Taoist sages.  In this context, it refers to relationship building according to Confucian ethics.  The eight parties include: Sovereign-Subject; Father-Son; Husband-Wife; Brothers; Friends.  Automotive parts and car washing facilities are found along Pateh Road.

JIORU   "Nine Wishes".

SHIHCHUAN    "Perfect Ten"  Pened by the poet, the Duke of Chou, "10" represents an ideal, a dream, complete and magical. Medical equipment and home health needs can be purchased along Shihchuan in the vicinity of Kaohsiung Medical College and College Hospital

Certain streets in Kaohsiung are nicknamed
by the types of goods and services provided

Talien
Shoe Street Street
Chienkuo
Computer Street
Chingnien
Furniture Street
Chungcheng
Wedding Dress Street
Chungshan
Bushiban Street
Fuiey
Bicycle Street
Gongyuan
Ship Salvage Parts Street
Hsinchung
Flower Street
Hsinlo
Gold Jewelry
Changming
Electronics & Wholesale Clothing 

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